Healing Through Creation: My Step Into Specialty Soapmaking

Specialty bar to exfoliate your skin

Two weeks ago, I released a video showcasing my first attempt at creating natural soap bars. Today, I'm thrilled to present a recipe for a specialty soap bar. This recipe is from Kelly Cable's "The Natural Soapmaking Book for Beginners," a book I highly recommend for anyone interested in making natural soap bars. It offers clear explanations and beautiful images.

Among all her recipes, this particular one caught my attention because I was looking for a scrub to include in my skincare routine for exfoliating my skin. I was thrilled to discover a recipe for a Mocha-Coffee Scrub Bar on page 118. Eager to try it, I ordered the carrier oils I was missing—Macadamia nut oil and Cocoa Butter, which I was running low on.

In this blog, we discuss the importance of exfoliating your skin and why I chose this recipe for my next creation.

Why is it important to exfoliate your skin?

Exfoliating your skin is a crucial aspect of any effective skincare routine, and its importance cannot be overstated. The primary purpose of exfoliation is to remove dead skin cells that accumulate on the surface of the skin. These dead cells can make the skin appear dull and lifeless, leading to an uneven skin tone and texture. By regularly exfoliating, you help to reveal the fresh, healthy skin underneath, which can enhance your overall complexion and give your skin a radiant glow.

Moreover, exfoliation plays a vital role in preventing clogged pores. When dead skin cells are not removed, they can mix with excess oil and other impurities, leading to blockages that may cause acne breakouts and blackheads. By incorporating exfoliation into your skincare regimen, you can minimize the risk of these common skin issues, thereby promoting clearer and healthier skin.

In addition to these benefits, exfoliating can also enhance the effectiveness of other skincare products. When the surface of your skin is free from dead cells and impurities, it allows serums, moisturizers, and treatments to penetrate more deeply and work more effectively. This means that you can maximize the benefits of your skincare products, leading to better hydration, improved texture, and overall skin health.

Furthermore, regular exfoliation can stimulate cell turnover, which is the process by which your skin sheds old cells and generates new ones. As we age, this natural process slows down, leading to a buildup of dead skin that can contribute to signs of aging such as fine lines, wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation. By exfoliating, you can encourage a more youthful appearance and maintain your skin's vitality.

It's also important to note that there are different methods of exfoliation, including physical exfoliants, such as scrubs and brushes, and chemical exfoliants, which use acids or enzymes to dissolve dead skin cells. Each method has its own benefits, and choosing the right one for your skin type is essential. For instance, individuals with sensitive skin may benefit more from gentle chemical exfoliants, while those with oilier skin might find physical scrubs more effective. In my skincare routine, I used physical scrubs because my skin varies from combination to oily depending on the weather.

Supplies

Scale

Immersion blender

Blankets or towels

Bowls

Spoons

Thermometer

Mold

Whisk

Rubber spatula

Parchment paper

Ingredients

2 tbsp coffee grounds

12.9 oz brewed coffee

10 oz olive oil

9 oz coconut oil

8 oz cocoa butter

7 oz macadamia nut oil

4.8 oz lye

1 oz coffee oil (CO2 extracted) - I did not use this when I created this batch

1 tbsp cocoa powder

Instructions:

Step 1: Brew yourself a cup of coffee using 2 tbsp of coffee grounds, ensuring that you have at least 12.9 oz of brewed coffee for your specialty bar. Refrigerate. This step may be done the day before and cooled in the refrigerator. Ensure the brewed coffee is cold before adding the lye to avoid burning the coffee.

In Kelly's book, she advises chilling or freezing it until it's slushy but not completely frozen before incorporating the lye. Recall from the prior blog and video that the reaction when adding sodium hydroxide (lye) is exothermic, meaning it will become quite hot. To prevent burning the coffee, gradually add the crystals to the very cold coffee.

Step 2: Prepare the lye solution by measuring 4.8 oz of lye (sodium hydroxide) and adding the crystals to the cooled brewed coffee. Allow the lye solution to cool down to a temperature between 37 and 43 degrees Celsius (100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit). Important: Use protective gloves, goggles, and a long-sleeved shirt or lab coat to safeguard your clothing. Additionally, ensure you make the lye in a well-ventilated area.

Note: In Kelly Cable's recipe, she prepares the lye after heating and mixing the oils. I prefer to make the lye first.

Step 3: In a large double-boiler or wax melting pot, melt the cocoa butter. Once it has melted, add the coconut oil and keep stirring as it melts. Then, incorporate the olive oil and macadamia nut oil, heating until the mixture is well combined and thoroughly heated. Keep the temperature of the combined oils between 37 and 43 degrees Celsius (100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit).

Step 4:As the lye solution and oils cool down, line your mold with parchment paper. Since I'm using a silicone-lined mold, I won't need to line it.

Step 5: Once the lye solution and oils reach the specified temperature, gently pour the lye solution into the oils, using the stick blender (immersion blender) as a decanter to prevent splashing. Blend in short bursts of 1 to 2 minutes, letting it rest for 4 to 5 minutes between pulses to emulsify, until you reach a light trace.

Trace refers to the point when the mixture has thickened enough so that a drizzle of soap remains on the surface, leaving a visible mark. This indicates that the mixture is fully emulsified.

Step 6: Add the coffee oil (optional) and the used coffee grounds to the mixture and blend for 30 seconds.

Step 7: Pour 1 cup of the oil mixture into a separate bowl, add the cocoa powder, and whisk until smooth and lump-free. This will provide the soap with its color. Add the cocoa-colored soap back into the mixture and blend thoroughly to ensure full incorporation.

Step 8: Pour the soap into the mold, cover it with parchment paper, and insulate it with towels or a blanket for 24 hours.

Step 9: Take the soap out of the mold once it has fully hardened. If it remains soft, keep it insulated for an additional 12 to 24 hours. Slice the soap into twelve 4 oz bars. Let them cure in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated area for 4 to 6 weeks.

Bonus Step: To decorate or emboss your soap, it's best to do this before the 4 to 6-week curing period.

Why these ingredients were used?

Coffee grounds: Excellent at providing exfoliation, improve circulation and offers antioxidants benefits.

Cocoa butter: SAP value: 0.138 - produces a hard soap that is both conditioning and moisturizing, contributing to the bar's firmness.

Coconut oil: SAP value: 0.183 - creates a hard soap with abundant lather that is cleansing, but can be drying, so it should be used in moderation alongside other oils.

Olive oil: SAP value: 0.135 - is very gentle and conditioning for the skin. It cleanses without removing the skin's natural oils and is rich in antioxidants and vitamin E.

Macadamia nut oil: SAP value: 0.139 - Moisturizing, restorative and non-greasy. It provides a conditioning lather while softening the skin. Great for mature, dry or sensitive skin.

Cocoa powder: Provides a powerful antioxidant, gentle exfoliation and natural fragrance, leaving your skin smoother and more radiant. In addition, it provides a rich brown colour to the soap.

These ingredients collectively provide a natural solution for skin health by delivering cleansing, exfoliation, hydration, and antioxidant protection all in one product.

I'm definitely excited to incorporate my first bar and the specialty exfoliating bar into my skincare routine. In the meantime, I weighed each bar and trimmed the excess so that they were closer to 4 oz, as some were initially 5 to 6 oz. After completing this task, I noticed the leftover soap. I attempted to melt it in my wax pot, but quickly realized that once it becomes soap, it won't melt but rather softens. To prevent my soap from burning, I added water and continued to soften it. I then found a plastic mold and used a spatula to press the softened soap into it. For the specialty bar, I lined a few small round glass bowls with parchment paper and added the softened soap into the mold. After 2 to 4 days, the soap hardened slightly. I began using this soap since it had finished processing due to the heating process used to soften it. I also checked the pH, which was 8, making it perfect.

When I used it, I observed that the exfoliation was effective, offering a deep, satisfying sensation on my dry skin. The soap bar was very cleansing and didn't dry out my skin. It felt clean yet soft.

I suggest that anyone interested in making their own soap or making a specialty soap should give it a try. Although it requires more effort, it is highly rewarding and worthwhile.

My journey continues...keep watching and following to see where it takes me next.

Exquisite natural soap bars surrounded by delicate blue and white flowers, offering a visually stunning and nourishing skincare experience.

Resource: https://simplelifemom.com/easy-soap-making-book/