Natural Soap bar Made Easy using natural ingredients | My First Soap-Making Experience

Natural Soap Bar - My First Soap Experience

Cold-process technique

When I began creating products and filming the process for my YouTube channel dedicated to my business, I never imagined all the wonderful things I could make at home with just a few simple ingredients. My skin and hair are grateful for it, and I definitely notice a difference. Additionally, I hadn't realized how many people are on the same journey, seeking answers, and wanting to live a simpler life by eating healthier and using natural products. Even within my own family, relatives share with me how their scalp feels itchy or they have dry skin, and store-bought products don't provide relief.

Initially, I made my first castile soap using Potassium Hydroxide (KOH) to create hand soap and shampoo. Then it occurred to me: why not film my journey? I started with no social media account, no YouTube channel, and no video editing experience whatsoever, but my passion for learning, teaching, and aromatherapy was greater than all my fears. So I took the first step, and now I am exploring and venturing into the world of natural soap bar making, loving every moment of it. I want to keep sharing this with you.

To embark on this journey, I ordered a kit that included molds and cutters, sodium hydroxide, and the book by Kelly Cable, "The Natural Soapmaking Book for Beginners, which I highly recommend. The book is very well written and equipped me with the knowledge to succeed on my first attempt, as demonstrated in my embedded video. On page 74, the recipe for Basic and Lovely Soap originally used lard, but I substituted it with cocoa butter to create a vegan version. I calculated the saponification values and arrived at the same amount of sodium hydroxide (lye) as she used, even after applying the 10% discount.

What is lye?

Lye is essential in soap making. It is an alkaline crystal, typically sodium hydroxide (NaOH) for bar soap or potassium hydroxide (KOH) for liquid soap. When these crystals are combined with water, they form an alkaline solution that reacts with oils in a process known as saponification (SAP). This chemical reaction converts the oils into soap and glycerin. All the lye is used up during this process, resulting in a safe and gentle bar of soap.

NaOH and KOH are hygroscopic, meaning they readily absorb and retain water molecules from their environment. It is important not to leave your jar open for extended periods, only when you are ready to prepare the lye. I used to work in a laboratory with both NaOH and KOH, and you must handle them carefully as they are caustic and can cause serious burns. Never touch the crystals with bare hands.

Ensure you work in a distraction-free, well-ventilated area away from children and pets, as the fumes can severely irritate the respiratory tract and cause corrosive burns to the eyes, skin, and mucous membranes. This is why I use my husband's wood shop to prepare the lye.

Always wear eye protection, gloves, and long sleeves to safeguard your skin. If any lye contacts your eyes or skin, rinse immediately and seek medical attention.

Adding NaOH or KOH to water is an exothermic process, meaning it releases a significant amount of heat. For soap making, allow the lye solution to cool to 37 to 43 degrees Celsius or 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit.

If you must leave the solution unattended, leave a sign indicating not to touch it, or better yet, place it out of reach or in a cupboard.

How much lye do you need?

The first step in making lye solution is to determine how much sodium hydroxide you need. I made the following table: Formula is Weight multiplied by SAP = NaOH

For example for the Olive Oil (12 oz x 0.135 = 1.62 oz

Oils % Weight (oz) SAP NaOH

Olive Oil 36 12 oz 0.135 1.62 oz

Cocoa Butter 34 11 oz 0.138 1.52 oz

Coconut oil 30 10 oz 0.183 1.83 oz

Total: 100 4.97 oz

In the saponification process, we want to add enough lye (sodium hydroxide) to convert the oils to soap and glycerin but not a 100 %. It is always best to have a bit of oils left over to nourish the skin and we do not want to add too much lye. Our goal is to have zero lye left over in our soap so that it is safe and gently to use.

In order to do this, we must calculate the lye discount. In this recipe, we are calculating a 10 % discount. (We need to take away at least 5%).

100 % - 10% = 90% = 0.90

0.90 multiplied by 4.97 oz = 4.47 oz which is rounded up to 4.5 oz

Therefore, the final amount of sodium hydroxide I would add to the distilled water is 4.5 oz.

Here is the recipe I used:

• 12 oz Olive oil

• 11 oz Cocoa butter

• 10 oz Coconut oil

• 4.5 oz lye (sodium hydroxide)

• 12.5 oz distilled water

This recipe will yield 12 4 oz soap bars.

Instructions: Part 1: How to Make Lye Solution?

Start by making the lye, as it requires time to cool. In a well-ventilated area, away from distractions, children, and pets, prepare by wearing goggles, dish gloves, and a long-sleeved shirt or lab coat to protect your skin and clothing. Measure all ingredients in this recipe by weight, not volume.

Step 1: Weigh 12.5 oz of distilled water in a large glass bowl or measuring cup. (Refer to my video)

Step 2: In a separate container, weigh 4.5 oz of lye. Never add water to lye; ALWAYS add lye to water.

Step 3: Slowly add the NaOH into the water while stirring continuously. Avoid covering the heated solution with a lid, as this could lead to pressure buildup and a potential explosion. Sodium hydroxide is extremely caustic, and if it comes into contact with your skin, it will cause burns unless promptly rinsed off with water.

Part 2: Preparing the Oils.

The following step involves combining and melting the olive oil, cocoa butter, and coconut oil.

Step 1: Weigh 12 oz of olive oil in a large bowl.

Step 2: Weigh 11 oz of cocoa butter. Mine came in a large bar. If that is the case, break the cocoa butter in small pieces so that it melts easily.

Step 3: Weigh 10 oz of coconut oil.

Step 4: Melt the cocoa butter as it is the longest ingredient to melt. You may use a double boiler which a smaller bowl place over a pot of hot water. In my case, I prefer using a wax melting pot.

Step 5: Once cocoa butter has melted, add the coconut oil and keep stirring while melting.

Step 6: Once both the cocoa butter and the coconut oil have melted, add the olive oil. Make sure you have a large enough bowl to incorporate all these ingredients.

Step 7: Bring the temperature of the oils to approximately 37 to 43 degrees Celsius or 100 to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Transfer the oils into a large bowl where you will be emulsifying the soap solution.

Part 3: Prepare Your Mold.

The next task is to prepare the mold. I purchased a mold with a silicone liner, but you can get creative and make your own mold. If a silicone liner is unavailable, use parchment paper to line the mold.

Part 4: Making Soap Bars

When the temperature of the lye solution is approximately 37 to 43 degrees Celsius, close to the temperature of the oils. A digital thermometer is ideal to use in this situation.

Step 1: Combine the lye with the oils. In my video, I use an immersion blender (stick blender) to decant the lye solution into the oils to prevent any splashing. Wear protective goggles and gloves in case it splashes.

Step 2: After adding the lye, pulse for 1 to 2 minutes and then let it rest for 4 to 5 minutes until a light trace begins to appear. Continue to pulse with the stick blender under you have a medium trace. (refer to my video)

A trace is the soap solution is thick enough, the dripping from your stick blender will leave like a trail over the surface. This is the indication that it is ready to pour. Your mold should be ready as you do not want the soap to become too thick and you cannot pour.

Step 3: Pour the soap into the mold.

Step 4: Cover the mold with parchment paper, place the mold on some blankets, and wrap the entire mold to insulate it. The saponification process will continue and it is important that the heat is retained which encourages a full gel phase. Wait for 24 hours.

Step 5: After the soap has hardened, remove from mold. If it's to soft, wait for another 12 to 24 hours before removing.

Step 6: Once removed from the mold, cut the soap in 12 4 oz bars. Place the bars in a cool, dry location that is well-ventilated and allow the bars to cure for 4 to 6 weeks.

I tested the pH at that time and saw that it was pH 9. The pH will reduce significantly after being cured.

Troubleshooting: If you notice a light white powder appearing on the bars as they cure, there's no need for concern. This is known as "Soda Ash." It is purely cosmetic. You can either wipe off the powder or shave it off your soap bars.

Please be aware that there are two methods: cold-process and hot-process soap making. Since I am new to soap making, I chose to begin with the cold-process. In the hot-process, instead of pouring the soap into a mold at trace, it is gently heated for several hours. According to Kelly Cable's book, one advantage of this method is that you don't have to wait 4 to 6 weeks for the soap to cure.

Why I used the following ingredients?

Cocoa butter: SAP value: 0.138 - produces a hard soap that is both conditioning and moisturizing, contributing to the bar's firmness.

Coconut oil: SAP value: 0.183 - creates a hard soap with abundant lather that is cleansing, but can be drying, so it should be used in moderation alongside other oils.

Olive oil: SAP value: 0.135 - is very gentle and conditioning for the skin. It cleanses without removing the skin's natural oils and is rich in antioxidants and vitamin E.

When these ingredients are combined, they form a balanced soap bar that is firm and durable due to the coconut oil, gentle and moisturizing from the olive oil, and extra conditioning from the cocoa butter. It offers a stable, creamy lather that cleanses without excessive drying while moisturizing and protecting the skin.

Making natural soap with natural ingredients has proven to be both enjoyable and fascinating. I'm eager to try crafting a specialty bar next. Be sure to revisit my blog or subscribe to my YouTube channel so you won't miss my upcoming creations.

Special credits to Natural Soapmaking Book for Beginners by Kelly Cable: https://share.google/images/LoY84xeECc20MzJf4

Handcrafted soap bars elegantly displayed with vibrant blue and white flowers, accompanied by a warm "Thank You" card adorned with floral and butterfly designs, creating a heartfelt and inviting scene.